This May, Ashino celebrates its 10th anniversary — a milestone for both the restaurant and its revered chef-owner, Taku Ashino, who has quietly but steadfastly shaped Singapore’s appreciation of jukusei sushi — the art of aging fish to deepen its umami flavour.

In a city where freshness often dominates conversations about sushi, Ashino has carved a distinct path. With premium seafood flown in directly from Japan’s Toyosu Market and aged with meticulous care, Ashino offers diners something far more nuanced: a layered, thoughtful, and rare expression of sushi craftsmanship that few others in Singapore can match.

The Craft Behind Each Bite

Kohada (Gizzard Shad)

At the core of Ashino’s philosophy are three key pillars:

• Aging (Jukusei): Chef Ashino ages fish like kohada (gizzard shad) and buri (yellowtail) for days or even weeks, carefully controlling temperature and humidity. This delicate method enhances natural umami without compromising texture.

• Shinkejime: In collaboration with fish supplier Hiroki Hasegawa, Ashino ensures every catch is dispatched using this humane technique, preserving freshness for optimal aging.

• Shari (Sushi Rice): Made from a blend of Koshihikari and Nahatsu Boshi rice, and washed with Mount Fuji mineral water before being cooked in a traditional Nanbu Tetsu iron kettle, the rice is the quietly powerful partner to each slice of aged fish.

This approach has made Ashino a destination for purists and sushi enthusiasts seeking something beyond the usual omakase.

Shinkejime Ali (Horse Mackerel), done by Hiroki Hasegawa from Kanagawa Prefecture

Shinkejime: Preserving the Essence of Freshness

A true pioneer of fish aging in Singapore, Chef Ashino’s mastery is complemented by his partnership with Hiroki Hasegawa, a respected fish supplier who specialises in shinkejime — a precise and humane technique for dispatching fish that preserves its freshness and texture. Known for his appearance on the NHK programme ‘Professional’, Hasegawa treats each fish with great respect, ensuring it arrives at Ashino in peak condition for aging. His deep connection to nature extends beyond fish, as he is also an expert in foraging wild mushrooms and mountain vegetables.

This collaboration guarantees that only the highest-quality fish is used, including rare and unique options not available to most in the industry. Hasegawa’s network allows Ashino to source these exclusive, bespoke ingredients from Japan, which are provided only to top chefs, ensuring a truly premium dining experience.

“Shinkejime is a craft that requires immense skill, and its effect on the fish is unparalleled. It’s this level of craftsmanship that sets Ashino’s sushi apart,” Chef Ashino explains. “The ability to work with the freshest fish, and then age it using techniques like wet-aging or aging in kelp, allows me to bring out a depth of flavour that is unlike anything else.”

A New Chapter with More Flexibility

To mark its 10-year journey, Ashino has introduced a refreshed menu that offers more accessible dining options:

• Omakase Lunch from S$168++

• Omakase Dinner from S$235++

• Okonomi (à la carte add-ons) — a flexible, seasonal selection for guests who want to customise their experience. A concept Ashino brought to Singapore with the blessing of sushi master Keiji Nakazawa, guests can now personalise their meal with dishes like Aged Botan Ebi, Chutoro, Uni, and Kanpyo Hand Roll.

This move adds value without compromising on quality or tradition — something long-time fans will appreciate.

The Chef’s Journey

Chef Ashino’s path is as unique as his sushi. Born in Tokyo, he once walked over 1,500 kilometres during a personal pilgrimage across Japan. That journey — one of self-reflection and connection with nature — laid the foundation for his spiritual and disciplined approach to food. A part-time job at a sushi restaurant eventually revealed his life’s purpose.

After over a decade of training in Tokyo, he moved to Singapore to helm the sushi counter at Hide Yamamoto before opening Ashino at Chijmes in 2015. Today, the restaurant resides at Club Street, where a 10-seat sushi counter and private room offer diners an intimate front-row seat to his philosophy in action.

Ashino isn’t just a restaurant. It’s a meditative experience where every bite is a conversation between chef and guest, shaped by time, technique, and tradition.

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Images: Ashino